Choosing a carré: Advice from Vicky

Like red lips or heels, you are a woman for printed silk carrés or not. I'm one, embracing as I do a small wardrobe. Two or three in a suitcase will stretch a few tops for a week.

If you're investing in one of the best examples of silk printing
(Hermès,Ferragamo, Chanel, etc.) you might profit from tips from my delightful friend Vicky, who worked at Hermès for years, and has always given forthright counsel.

Tip #1:  When deliberating, it's essential to tie a scarf in various ways. Don't decide based on the opened-out piece; prints look entirely different when the scarf is folded, and will change as you experiment with different ties.

Example: Here's Hermès' Homage to Shackleton. Who else would create a tribute to an Arctic exploration of heartrending hardship and eventual rescue as a scarf?  

At left, the open scarf in a soft blue colourway, courtesy of the site HSCI (Hermès Scarf Photo Catalogue).

I'm wearing Shackleton in another colourway, soft greys and taupes with an  orange hem.

Contrast-hems add an extra kick and makes scarves more casual: catnip to me.

Tip #2: Look for good corners, meaning the corners are pleasingly detailed, since they show on many tie-folds. Shackleton has exquisite corners, penguins, ice floes and compasses right to the hem.

Les Truites was first issued in 1953, and reissued in the mid-90s. Opened, it shows a graceful distribution of trout, mayflies, fishing gear. You can see why Le Duc, who gave it to me, was captivated, and he is happy still when I wear it.

I am too, but its corners are unremarkable and unfilled sections below the knot make it less vibrant when tied than when opened out. 

Where was Vicky when he chose it? Probably on her sailboat, enjoying a Pernod with her dashing husband.

Hermès' website shows the current season's  scarves both opened and folded (one way), which helps, but there's nothing like playing with one. 

 

Tip #3: Think about scale.


Les Parisiens is one of the most-loved of the Paris-themed scarves. Women who think the carré is stuffy might make an exception for it. Above, the opened scarf with its café habitués in the peach, green and coral colourway.

Mine is black, grey and orange.

This is ideal for me, a tall, large woman, but the busy, non-repeating print might overwhelm a petite frame.

A small woman would suit a smaller-scale or quieter motif like the classic Cosmos, shown below in amethyst and turquoise. Great corners, and the unfilled space glows with jacquard stars (which look like dots in this shot). Vicky admires the added depth and texture of the jacquards.

Tied, the navy and gold colourway looks like this; the neck area is ombré blue with small stars, a scale a woman of any size could wear easily:

More tips from La Vicks:

- If you wear foundation, stay away from the palest scarves.

- Though the French (and Vicky is one) are renowned for knowing what to do with a scarf, she says a woman need not be a tucking genius.

Most often, she simply folds it to a rectangle, ties it once, and just gets on with it, so that's what I do, too. It's a scarf, not an origami contest. Scarf shown is Concours d'Elegance.

For other ideas, videos like this one showing two simple knots by the wonderful deja pseu, are available. (Visit une femme d'un certain age; Under Labels in the right menu, click Scarves.)

If you dislike the printed carré, this post might renew your certainty; there are many other options. If interested in a pared-down wardrobe for daily or travel wear, you will find your own woven signature, from silk twill to hand-knits.